Monday, August 16, 2010

Mystery Monday 5: The Jacket, Outside

 Every Monday, I take a look at a Victorian jacket and skirt and learn a little more about it.  See previous Mystery Mondays here: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4

Mystery Monday Jacket 

What do the numbers mean?  Text and analysis after the jump...

1. The collar (15") is a separate piece, piped at the top and bottom edge, that was tacked onto the bodice.
2. 15" from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.  The shoulders slope into the sleeve, with the front and back bodice pieces meeting on the back of the body.  It seems to have been made for someone who always had her shoulders thrust back.
3. Front buttons are .5" in diameter and spaced 1-2" apart depending on their location. The farther-spaced buttons are near the bottom.
4. The sleeves are made of two pieces that are sewn together at the back of the arm and the underside. They are fully lined.
5. Like the collar, the cuffs are piped on all edges and finished apart from the sleeve and then attached later.
6. Evidence of sewing machine stitches that have been picked out.  An earlier dart was removed, and the still-existing one below probably replaced it.
7. The bottom was piped after the bodice was pieced together.
8. Steel boning sewn into seam allowance between xes.
9. Pleated ruffle at end of sleeve.
10. More overlap given for top 10 buttons through thinnest part of waist.
11. Much more room in back.  I assume it was to accommodate a bustle.
12. Waist: about 24"